Jatayu Home

 
 

Home
What's New
Product Search

View Cart
Your Wish List
Search Wish Lists
Checkout

Tools & Equipment

Beads
     Fine Silver Patina
     Copper
     Raku
     Green Patina
     Bronze/Brass
     Stone
     Glass
     Designer Beads
     Sterling silver
     Misc.

Books, CDs, & Tutorials

Cold Connections

Photography Supplies

Wire
     Sterling Silver
     Copper
     Brass/Bronze
     Artistic

Sheet Metal
Sheet Metal Shapes
Tubing

Gift Certificates
Sale & Clearance

Galleries
Education
Biography
FAQ
Links
Archives

Contact Me

 
Order Policies
Privacy Statement

Safety Information

 

 
 
Hammers, Mallets, and Anvils
 

A hammer needs to fit your hand like a glove. Well, almost. When you are using a quality hammer that is balanced correctly that easily gives the results you want, it is pure heaven. My favorite hammer to flatten and shape wire is a master quality ball peen hammer (pictured below). The round end of the ball peen hammer is used to texture the wire. I have tried expensive planishing hammers, but they seem to leave marks on the wire. A good quality chasing hammer with a convex face can also be used. They are kind of hard to find though. The less expensive models get marks on the face of the hammer which in turn leave marks on the wire.

The riveting hammer (pictured below) is a lovely tool that will make riveting a joy. It is lightweight and will make the most cheerful little tapping sounds.

Mallets come in different sizes and are made from varying materials. The plastic mallet in the photo (pictured below) has a .75 inch face that directs a solid blow to the wire. Why use a plastic mallet? To straighten and shape the wire without flattening it. The plastic mallet is also used to harden wire.

Another type of mallet is the rawhide mallet (pictured below). It straightens and shapes without flattening wire and Sheet Metal
Sheet Metal Shapes. The face is 1.5 inches and is particularly useful in working with Sheet Metal
Sheet Metal Shapes. How did I get the curve in this cuff?, by striking the metal on a bracelet mandrel with the rawhide mallet. I also annealed the metal which is a whole other story.

The final mallet weighs 2 pounds and is made of brass (pictured below). Why use such a heavy tool? It is the perfect instrument for stamping with design stamps. The heavy blow assures a deep enough impression in the Sheet Metal
Sheet Metal Shapes. This is a good work out but if you have shoulder problems you may consider something a little less hefty.

 
      The other side of the hammering story is the steel bench block, or anvil. This is the hardened steel square (pictured at left) that provides the hammering surface. Using a polished surface like the anvil shown here prevents marks being hammered into your wire. Sometimes I make the mistake of thinking bigger is better. So, years ago I bought a steel bench block twice this size. The only thing it did was take up more space on my table. A 2.5” x 2.5” square is adequate. And, easier to carry with you. The little pad under the steel bench block keeps the block in place and deadens some of the hammering noise.
It is made from leather and is filled with stainless steel shot. I don’t think it is a great idea to use a pad that is filled with lead shot. Aren’t we trying our darnedest to get lead out of our environment? Some pads come with sand inside which leaks onto your work surface. If you like the beach, then sand is good.
 
Horn anvils (no picture) are my anvil of choice when riveting. A 5 pound anvil will be a very solid surface on which to rivet. The plastic sheet on top of horn anvil is called “tuff brake” and it protects your jewelry from being scratched by the anvil. A very handy hammering accessory.
 

Next Page

 
 
 
 

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.
This is a secure shopping site. We take all major credit cards. 
©Copyright 1998-2008. Connie Fox.  All rights reserved.
Website design and photography by Connie Fox.

 Secure Online Shopping